Going vegan sometimes involves sacrifices, especially if you love ice cream. Because let’s be real: ice cream made with coconuts, oats, or soy just doesn’t have the same deliciously creamy texture as the dairy version. Or it didn’t—until now.
The food company Perfect Day has found a way to replicate whey—a milk protein that’s partially responsible for dairy’s creamy texture—without cows. And companies such as Brave Robot ($58 for four pints) and Smitten ($59 for four pints) are already using the ingredient in their vegan ice creams.
What is animal-free whey?
“Animal-free whey” isn’t as impossible as it sounds. In nature, cows eat grass, which gets digested into nutrients (protein, sugars, fats, etc.) that are turned into milk in the animals’ mammary glands. Sugar and fat are easy to get from other sources, like coconuts, but it’s the whey that makes dairy special, according to Nicki Briggs, RDN, the vice president of corporate communications at Perfect Day.
To recreate the protein, Perfect Day developed a specialized microflora (theirs is a type of fungi, though a bacteria could also work) and “trained it to act like a cow,” says Briggs. Here’s how: Their scientists took the genetic sequence of a cow (without harming it!), and used that as a “blueprint” to change sections of the DNA of the fungi so it would produce whey when fed certain sugars. It’s basically a fancy form of fermentation, the same process that happens when yeast (a fungi) turns grains into beer or bacteria (another type of microflora) turns cabbage into sauerkraut. Once Perfect Day had that microflora, the next step was to put it in a fermentation tank with sugars and let it do its thing.
The resulting whey is identical to what’s produced by cows, in terms of nutrition and function. And it’s not considered a genetically modified organism (GMO), because the whey itself isn’t modified. In fact, “when you test products [made with the Perfect Day whey] for genetically modified markers, they wouldn’t be that,” says Paul Kollesoff, the general manager and co-founder of The Urgent Company, the makers of Brave Robot ice cream.
Is it better for the environment?
The animal-free production process is also more sustainable: Livestock takes up nearly 80 percent of all farmland and accounts for 14.5 percent of all greenhouse gas emissions caused by human activity, according to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization. Cow’s milk also has to be transported, and with this type of whey, “you’re not relying on all the fuel and space needed to raise those cows,” says integrative health coach Jessica Cording, RD.
But whey alone isn’t ice cream. To make its frozen dessert, Brave Robot combines the…